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- 2016A
- SCAN DEFEAT DURING XMIT FOR KDK 2016A
-
- Anyone with a KDK-2016A has either fixed this or learned to live with
- it, but here goes anyway:
-
- The 4-channel memory scan on the KDK 2016A is designed to be active
- whenever a) the memory channel switch is in the "scan" position and b)
- when the RCV LED on the front panel is not lit. To keep the receiver
- tuned to an active channel once it's hit, the same signal that drives
- the RCV light is picked off on its path via a white/yellow wire from
- P24 of the main board to the display unit; the signal also goes to P9
- on the synthesizer unit, where it is RC shaped and fed to the base of
- Q12, whose collector circuit stops the scan when the LED comes on.
-
- The problem is this: if you decide to talk to someone you hear on an
- active scanned channel -- and forget to first move the switch from
- the scan position -- as soon as you key the mike, the RCV LED goes out
- (doesn't that make sense?) and bingo! scanning begins again. The
- effect of this is to spread yourself around a bit -- 1/3 sec on one
- channel, 1/3 on another.... Kind of a primitive "spread-spectrum" but
- not guaranteed to win friends on the other repeaters you may have in
- memory. If you notice the frequencies flashing by on the display, you
- can catch this in time to save yourself some embarrassment, but there
- is another workaround. I installed this mod about ten years ago, and
- it's still doing fine.
-
- PARTS: 2 small diodes, not at all critical; 1N1004s are fine
- 1 small junk-box capacitor, .01 to .1, maybe tant or
- electrolytic
- abt 6" of hookup wire
-
- PROC: -Cut the wire that goes from P24 on the main board to P9 on the
- synthesizer board and install a diode in the wire, with the
- cathode towards the synthesizer.
- -Connect the cathode lead of the second diode to the cathode of
- the first.
- -Connect the anode lead of the second diode, via the hookup
- wire, to P39 on the main board. (You can tap into the
- white/orange wire that goes from P39 to the display board. You
- guessed it -- this is the lead that drives the XMT LED.)
- -To the same junction, connect the + lead of the cap; connect
- the - lead to a good ground on the synth board. Your choice of
- grounds, but the emitter of Q12 is OK, as is almost any other
- reasonable shield, metal, or board screw. (If you couldn't
- find a ground, would you be a ham?)
- -Of course, all the standard good techniques (power off, good
- insulation, appropriate soldering iron and temperature, etc.)
- should be used.
-
- Another mod that suggests itself on this radio is the replacement of
- toggle switch SW6 (the red-handled WRITE switch) with a momentary.
-
- If anyone has any questions about this proc -- or needs a copy of
- 2016A schematics -- contact me thus:
- Allen, N2AEL@NO3M.#WPA.PA.NA.USA.
- 73 ES GL.
-